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Tampere is located about 200 kilometers north of Helsinki on the Tammerkoski rapids that connect lakes Nãsijãrvi and Pyhãjãrvi. The rapids are formed from the 18 meters difference in height between the two lakes. The city was established in 1779 and, due to the water turbine power from the Tammerkoski rapids, became a hub of industrial manufacturing in the 19th century. James Finlayson established the largest cotton factory here in 1820. The buildings’ size dominated the town. The leading industries were textiles and iron, but it was also home to the first paper mill and the first electric light to be installed in a factory was in Finlayson’s. Today the heavier industries have begun to dissipate and high technology has taken over. The dominant name of Finlayson industries has been pushed aside for the more familiar Nokia.
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The sky line of Tampere is still full of smoke stacks and prominent redbrick industrial buildings but on a closer look very few of the smoke stacks ever produce any smoke, and the main entrances to the brick buildings are no longer for large scale machinery. Instead they have been brought down to a human scale with atomic glass doors that swing open where a 10 meter sliding wooden door once stood. The circulation systems of pulleys and chains in the interiors have been replaced with new lighting and small-scale stairways for human circulation.
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The Finlayson complex still dominates the city’s industrial region. When it was built this was a city within a city. Not only was it the source of most of the jobs for the residents of Tampere but it was also a center of housing, schools, and merchandising . Today it is still a lively community but now, instead of industry, it has been reused to house a number of civic and commercial functions: restaurants, shops, museums, businesses, and galleries. Many of the spaces feel as though they have not changed much from the original uses; piping forms and machinery that is no longer in use still run through the ceilings, and chains hanging from cranes that have not operated in years still swing in the drafts in the new ventilation system. The least successful places are the areas that house the restaurants There the former textile mill has been dissected up into a number of chain restaurants that retain few recollections of what the space used to be. Since the facades of these buildings cannot be changed due to strict preservation codes there is almost no natural light in some areas and the whole space is more reminiscent of a Mall food court than a once humming industry.
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A more satisfactory reuse is that of the old engineering works of Tampella Ltd into a Museum Center. Here you can visit Finland Hockey museum, which consists entirely of displays reliving the 1995 World Championship when Finland beat Sweden to win the title. The buildings house six different museums, photo archives, and a café. The buildings began as a linen and iron factory producing both locomotive turbines and damask linen cloths. The textile production ended in the 1970s and the industrial use of the buildings ended soon after that. Between 1995 and 2000 the buildings were converted into the present day museum facilities. The buildings are centered around a large turbine room, into which all exhibits enter and from which they exit on different levels. The central space is left open and provides a generous amount of daylight into the circulation areas. The café is at one end of the turbine hall and extends outside over the Tammerkoski rapids.
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Tampere’s core of industrial buildings still stand today though they house new functions. From a street perspective, the facades of the industrial buildings have remained the same and the street wall, though not always pedestrian friendly, makes it easy to imagine what life was like when the person next to you knew how to work a cotton gin rather then a cell phone.
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